How the Width of the Breaking Zone Filters Infragravity Waves
A spotlight with an adjustable beam width sweeps along the shore. Its light is the long ocean waves that are born in the surf zone and spread in both directions: toward the beach and out to the open sea. Previously, this spotlight was considered a point source, but the actual breaking zone, where short waves break, has a finite width, and it changes as the wave front advances and retreats.